February 2024: Black and African American Producers (And Kenny Likitprakong)

Welcome to our second month of wine club! Since February is Black History Month here in the ole US of A, I wanted to feature Black and African American winemakers and producers. This proved to be a challenge. Not because there aren't many-- no, there's a long list of Black winemakers, but sourcing their wine was tricky. Our distributors simply didn't carry many labels. This sourcing problem in itself surely speaks to the challenges and complexities of breaking into an industry historically (and currently) dominated by white men. 

But it is clear the industry is changing, and although pickings were slim, I hope you find these selections as fun and delicious as I did. Cheers. 

Phil Long, Longevity Cabernet Sauvignon 2021 

As President of the Association of African American Vintners, Phil Long was an obvious choice for this month's celebration of Black and African American winemakers. 

Phil began making wine in his garage with his wife Debra, who is central to his wine-making journey. As a bi-racial couple entering the wine world, their goal was always to make wine approachable and inclusive. When they moved to the Livermore Valley in 2002 (one of the oldest wine regions in California), they found themselves surrounded by wine country, and since Phil is "not a guy who does things on a small scale" (vintnerproject.com) their garage project quickly grew into the full scale production of Longevity Wines. In 2019, Debra passed from pancreatic cancer, but Phil and his son Phil Jr., who is now Assistant Winemaker, continue to honor her legacy and produce wines that are high-quality, consciously grown, and accessible to a wide market. 

Phil designed the label of this Longevity Cabernet Sauvignon-- the heart representing his relationship with Debra. It's a true Californian: big dark fruit and prominent oak, a good wine for a chilly day!

McBride Sisters Sauvignon Blanc 2022 

Robin and Andréa McBride have a truly remarkable founding story: half sisters raised on opposite sides of the globe, they had no knowledge of each other until their father passed away. When they met for the first time, they immediately connected through their shared love of wine. Today, the McBride sisters run the largest Black-owned wine company in the world. From the start, their focus has been on social justice and accessibility. Their staff is 80% women, including their head winemaker and vineyard director. In 2019, they launched SHE CAN, a line of canned wines which supports the advancement of women (particularly women of color) through scholarships, mentoring, training, and networking. 

This Sauvignon Blanc is sourced from New Zealand, which is where Andréa grew up. It carries the characteristic NZ tropical notes on the nose, yet on the palate they are restrained and the grape's acidity and freshness come through. 

Kumushu Rosé 2023 & Chenin Blanc 2023

Kumushu means "my home" in the Shona language, one of the most widely-spoken languages of Zimbabwe. This feeling of home or place is what Tinashe Nyamudoka aims to evoke in his minimal intervention wines. Born and raised in Zimbabwe, Tinashe moved to Cape Town in 2008 and began his restaurant career polishing silverware and waiting tables, with no prior wine knowledge. By 2016 he had been awarded several wine service awards and worked as head sommelier in some of Cape Town's finest restaurants. 

In 2017, Tinashe paired with winemaker and friend Attie Louw. Starting small, Kumusha wines released just 1200 cases of their 2017 vintage and sold out in three months. Their largest export market: Zimbabwe. Now, Kumusha Wines are widely available and reflects Tinashe's commitment to creating wines that reflect his home, with natural fermentation, large foudres, and minimal intervention to honor South Africa's unique terroirs. 

The Kumusha Rosé is 98% Cinsault and 2% Colombard. Bright cherry and strawberry notes with a touch of spice. The Chenin Blanc is 100% Chenin, 80% aged in stainless steel and 20% aged 6 months in large oak foudres. Juicy with south-of-the-equator fruit, it finishes dry and crisp.

Three by Wade Chenin Blanc 2021

Ok, so technically NBA star Dwyane Wade is not the winemaker. I mean, you can only be great at so many things, right? But he fell in love with winemaking after visiting Napa Valley during harvest season in 2014, and quickly partnered with the Pahlmeyer family (known for French-style Californian wines) to found Wade Cellars. The result is delicious. 

In 2021, Wade joined the Executive Leadership Board at UC Davis' School of Viticulture and Enology. Along with Julia Coney, who founded Black Wine Professionals, and Miguel Luna, of Silverado Farming Company, Wade is pushing for more diversity and inclusion in the wine industry. 

This 100% Chenin Blanc is sourced from organically farmed vineyards in Clarksburg. Fermented in stainless steel, it undergoes full malolactic conversion. Bright yet round and full with fresh citrus and just a touch of tropical fruit. I LOVE IT!

Maison Noir 'Horseshoes and Handgrenades'

André Hueston Mack has an impressive resume. He was named Best Young Sommelier by Chaîne des Rôtisseurs in 2003, and went on to work as Head Sommelier at The French Laundry and Per Se. Mack is a public figure whose brand is on-point. He labels himself as a sommelier, winemaker, and designer, and this last title has helped launch him as a wine personality with Instagram videos, Ted Talks, books, and restaurants. 

Mouton Noir (The Black Sheep) was founded in 2007 and is a collaboration between Mack and the growers and winemakers he connected with throughout his career. The Horseshoes and Handgrenades (so named because the fruit is sourced from vineyards that straddle the Washington/Oregon border) is a blend of Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Merlot. Fruit-forward, not shy-- a good companion for grey days. 

Banyan Gewurztraminer 2022

Kenny Likitprakong is a winemaker with the soul of a skateboarder. A Californian surfer and skateboarder, he eventually studied viticulture and enology at UC Davis. He started his umbrella company, Hobo Wines, with just $10,000, and aims to make wines that even a hobo could afford. There's a bit more to the name than that: Kenny and his family don't own any land of their own and instead farm and purchase the grapes they use to make their lean, terroir-driven wines. 

Banyan is Kenny's line of white wines made specifically to pair with Thai cuisine, a nod to his Thai heritage. This Gewurtztraminer carries the characteristic floral notes of the grape balanced with high acid and tightly controlled sugar levels. Perfect with Thai, Vietnamese, or Nepali curry.