This month in The Taste, we're exploring the exciting wines of Slovenia and Georgia!
Slovenia, a hidden central European gem, is making waves in the wine world with its diverse grape varieties and widespread commitment to sustainable winemaking. Known for wine from indigenous grapes and orange wines (made from white grapes with some skin contact before or during fermentation) Slovenian wines reflect unique terroir while remaining easy-drinking and downright delicious.
Georgia, often considered the cradle of winemaking, boasts an 8,000-year-old winemaking tradition. The distinctive qvevri (clay vessel) fermentation method produces wines with deep character and complexity, often showcasing ancient and indigenous varietals.
Rodica Malvasia 2022
Country: Slovenia
Region: Primorska
Grape: Malvasia Istriana
Crossing the Adriatic Sea from one of last month’s selections (Cave Canem’s Montepulciano d’Abruzzo), the Rodica Winery looks out over the Gulf of Trieste from the Dragonja river valley in Slovenia. Their organic Malvasia Istriana is creamy but light, with intriguing mineral notes, a floral and peachy nose, and enough acidity to drink with your meal.
Rodica, founded in 1998 by a former auto mechanic, produces organic wines from over fifteen hectares of mostly indigenous grapes. Fermented with a few hours of skin contact and spontaneous yeasts, the Malvasia is aged primarily in stainless steel, with up to a quarter transferred to acacia barrels. I particularly love this wine as an apéritif, but it also pairs well with a variety of lighter meals. The producer recommends pasta with truffles—a local Slovenian specialty.
Dila-o Saperavi 2022
Country: Georgia
Region: Kaheti
Grape: Saperavi
An ancient grape that’s still new to many Americans, Saperavi is indigenous to the country of Georgia. This savory, organic red from the Teleda winery in eastern Georgia suggests violets and plum on the nose and flavors of dark berries, pepper, and earth. It has just the right amount of juiciness and freshness to pair perfectly with rich cheeses and holiday meals.
Dila-o’s Saperavi comes from a father-son team who ferment the wine with native yeast and age in qvevri (clay vessels buried underground). The name, which means paint or dye, references the wine’s dark color. Saperavi grapes have both dark skins and pulp, which is relatively uncommon among grape varietals. Also uncommon are the vines’ ages, all over fifty years old—a rarity in post-Soviet Georgia. With an 8,000 year old winemaking tradition, many natural winemakers today look to Georgia’s practices, such as fermenting and aging wine in qvevri or making skin-contact orange wines. For a “what grows together, goes together” pairing, try Saperavi with khachapuri (Georgian cheese bread).
